If you’ve ever walked through the City of London, you know St. Paul’s Cathedral is impossible to miss. But did you know the dome you see today wasn’t always there? The original cathedral vanished during the Great Fire of London in 1666—a disaster that tore right through the heart of the city. Londoners lost more than houses and shops; they lost a spiritual landmark they’d counted on for centuries.
So much of what we love about central London—its winding alleys, pubs that have clung on for hundreds of years, even street layouts—was shaped by the fire and its aftermath. If you’re standing near Pudding Lane, just a short Thameslink ride from St. Paul’s (cheeky tip: the Monument station is right next door), you’re practically on the fire’s front line. The scale of the blaze is wild to imagine: it started in a bakery but wiped out over 13,000 homes. It’s the reason you see so little medieval architecture in the city today.
- London in Flames: The Great Fire's Reality
- Losing Old St. Paul’s: A City’s Heartbreak
- Wren’s New Vision: St. Paul’s Reborn
- St. Paul’s Today: Exploring London’s Icon
London in Flames: The Great Fire's Reality
London in 1666 was packed with timber houses, narrow lanes, and all sorts of flammable stuff. The fire kicked off on Pudding Lane, right near the St. Paul's Cathedral area locals know today. It was early on 2 September, and by the time folks noticed, flames had already jumped from one house to the next. Firefighting was nothing like it is now—there were no proper fire brigades, just bucket chains and teams with leather squirts. Most people thought the stone walls of Old St. Paul’s would hold, but they didn’t stand a chance.
The wind that night was brutal, blowing sparks farther and lighting up even stone buildings. Samuel Pepys, the famous London diarist, described it as “the saddest sight of desolation that I ever saw.”
"All the sky was of a fiery aspect, like the top of a burning oven, and the light seen for leagues round about." — Samuel Pepys, Diary, 3 September 1666
Within four days, the fire chewed through four-fifths of the city inside the old walls. Sixteen city churches and almost every building on Ludgate Hill, where St. Paul's stands, were destroyed. The Monument, that tall column near London Bridge, marks the fire's starting point. If you're out for the day, it's worth a climb—there are 311 steps, so bring sturdy shoes.
Here's a look at just how much was lost during those four days:
| What Burned | Estimated Loss |
|---|---|
| Houses | 13,200+ |
| Churches (including Old St. Paul’s) | 87 |
| City Gates | 4 |
| Businesses (shops, pubs, etc.) | Thousands |
Trying to escape, Londoners carried their belongings on carts toward Moorfields or even across the Thames to Southwark. Some ended up staying in makeshift camps for months. If you walk through the City today—places like Cheapside or Cannon Street—you’re following streets that rose from those exact ashes. It was an event that forced London to rethink fire safety, rebuild stronger, and set the stage for all the city’s modern fire rules we mostly take for granted now.
Losing Old St. Paul’s: A City’s Heartbreak
The original St. Paul’s Cathedral wasn’t just a church—it was London’s main gathering spot for centuries. Before the fire, it was the largest building in the city and a centerpiece for locals. Its spire was so tall, you could spot it far across the Thames. In fact, it was the third church on the site, with parts built as far back as the 12th century. For regular Londoners, this was where you met friends, did business, and sometimes even went shopping. The nave, known as "Paul’s Walk," was the social media of its day—you heard all the gossip there.
On Sunday, September 2, 1666, fire spread fast through the City. At first, many assumed the thick stone and lead roof would protect St. Paul’s. The trouble was, printers using the cathedral’s crypt for storage had packed it with paper and books. By Monday night, sparks set this stash ablaze. Flames turned the roof into molten metal, and huge stones crashed to the street. It was so hot, the iron bells melted. The next morning, St. Paul’s was a blackened ruin.
Here’s how things looked, based on recorded facts:
| Feature | Old St. Paul’s (pre-1666) | After the Fire |
|---|---|---|
| Main Spire Height | Approx. 149m (489 ft) | Destroyed |
| Building Length | Approx. 178m (584 ft) | Lost |
| Materials | Stone walls, wooden roof, lead covering | Ruined, melted, collapsed |
| Community Role | Meeting point, market, event centre | Gone, community uprooted |
If you’ve ever wondered why so many old city parish records seem to vanish in 1666, this is the reason. Priceless archives, tombs, even the remains of some local heroes—wiped out. It didn't just shake religious life, it gutted the community. People from Fleet Street to Cheapside suddenly felt lost in their own neighbourhood. For modern-day Londoners, it’s like losing both your town hall and your favourite park overnight.
The shock of losing St. Paul’s was a big reason people backed the bold new plans to rebuild. The city’s pride and heart were at stake. When you walk around modern St. Paul’s, remember—the current building stands on centuries of history and a lot of heartbreak.
Wren’s New Vision: St. Paul’s Reborn
The old medieval St. Paul’s Cathedral was lost, but London didn’t stay down for long. Charles II called on Sir Christopher Wren—a name you’ll spot all over the city if you’re into iconic buildings. What’s cool is that Wren didn’t just patch things up or copy the old look. He flipped tradition on its head and set out to build something London had never seen before.
Instead of a simple pointy spire, Wren designed that huge dome, which is now the third largest in the world. Before this, nothing like it had ever popped up in England. Wren was inspired by St. Peter’s in Rome, but he gave it a true London makeover, working buildings around narrow city streets left by the Great Fire. Rebuilding started in 1675, but it wasn’t a quick fix—it took until 1710 for the last stone to go in.
Here’s a wild stat: Over 50 churches in the City of London were rebuilt or repaired by Wren and his team after the fire. But St. Paul’s Cathedral was where he really showed off. The famous Whispering Gallery (try it with your mates) is part architect’s genius, part quirky accident.
"I hope it will not be thought vanity to say that I have spared neither pains nor study for the accomplishment of it," — Sir Christopher Wren
Getting the dome built was a major local event. They used Portland stone, shipped up the Thames, which gave the cathedral its pale look. If you’re hanging around Café Rouge on St. Paul’s Churchyard, just know you’re sipping coffee on history—the stone was rolled right through those lanes.
- The cathedral was the first Anglican cathedral re-built from scratch after the Reformation.
- Wren’s plan survived 11 different redesigns before the king finally said yes.
- If you want a closer look at Wren’s handiwork, you can join one of the guided “Triforium Tours” run by St. Paul’s staff—locals swear it’s the best way to spot hidden details above the Dome.
Next time you’re walking the Millennium Bridge and spot the Cathedral rising above everything else, it’s almost impossible to forget that Wren’s rebuild wasn’t just about architecture—it was about London showing it could rise again, bigger and bolder than before.
St. Paul’s Today: Exploring London’s Icon
St. Paul’s Cathedral isn’t just a backdrop for city selfies—it’s an experience you don’t really get anywhere else in London. Whether you’ve lived here for years or you’re dropping by for a long weekend, stepping inside the cathedral feels like stumbling into a living piece of the city’s story. The entry fee for adults is about £20, but if you attend a service, it’s free—locals sometimes go to evensong for the music and the view, and you won’t get hustled out after five minutes.
The dome is the star. You can actually climb up inside it, but heads up: it’s over 500 steps to the top. There’s the Whispering Gallery (where you can test the weird way sound travels), plus two more outdoor galleries for proper skyline views. On a clear day, you see from the Barbican all the way to the Shard. If you’ve got kids in tow like I usually do, bring snacks—there’s nowhere for a cheeky break mid-staircase, and little legs get tired.
- The crypt downstairs is where real history buffs go. Lots of famous Britons are buried there, like Admiral Nelson and the Duke of Wellington. It’s surprisingly peaceful, and there’s a small café tucked away if you need a break.
- The area outside is worth a wander. Head down Ludgate Hill and you’ll run into local haunts like Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese pub. On weekday mornings, the Millennium Bridge is busy with City workers and tourists, but it’s a top spot for Thames photos.
- When the Cathedral hosts events—anything from organ recitals to pop-up exhibitions—you can sometimes score discounted entry. Check the St. Paul’s website or follow them on social media for updates.
Quick tip: The nearest Tube stations are St. Paul’s on the Central line or Mansion House on the District and Circle lines. Arriving early gives you a quieter visit and better pictures. And don’t bother driving—parking in the Square Mile costs more than brunch at Borough Market.
